Chinchilla and Sugar Glider Breeder of NC

About Me

Tiffany's Exotic Pets is owned by Tiffany Yarboro. I'm currently a Junior at North Carolina State University majoring in Computer Science. I live in the small town of Roxboro, NC - about a 30 minute drive from Durham, NC and a 30 minute drive from Danville, VA. I got into hobby breeding after I got my first pair of chins, Daisy and Daddy back in 2005. I began to research exotic animals afterwards and became fascinated with them. While chinchillas aren't exactly considered exotics, they seem to fall into the same category as the exotic fuzzies. I found the subject to be an exciting experience and I just had to have more. I began going to chinchilla shows in November of 08 and am now trying to concentrate on breeding quality chinchillas that would be great pets or breeders. My goal is to breed to excellence. My exotic obsession began to grow and I ended up purchasing a pair of sugar gliders after tons of research. My herd is slowly growing as time goes by. I focus the majority of my free time on these animals. My husband and I spend an easy 6 hrs out of the day with them all. They're a lifetime commitment.

After I finish my Comp Sci degree, I'm planning on applying to the Vet School at NCSU to possibly become a DVM for exotic animals. These little guys have made me realize that there needs to be more exotic vets around who actually understand these animals. Most vets don't have the experience or knowledge when it comes to small animals and may not be able to give adequate care in emergencies, or at least from what I've learned out of experience. I want to educate and to help the public when it comes to those other than cats and dogs. I hate to see them end up in shelters because their owners don't understand them or take care of them properly. Exotic animals don't need to be placed from home to home, but need to find the perfect home from the beginning.

Chinchillas

Before purchasing a chinchilla, it’s best to learn as much about them as you can, otherwise you’re going to end up throwing away money before you know it and could end up making mistakes that can’t be reversed with your chin care. I’m going to try to give you a quick run around of the background of chins, what to buy, what not to buy, and how to make your chins life the best it can be. I’m not the “all knowing chin expert” but I have learned through experience what works for them and what is safe.

Background

The term “chinchilla” comes from the Indian meaning “little chinta”. Chinchillas are considered rodents, even though they may not look like your average rat that you may find running around the house. Chinchillas originated in South America, where they were trapped for their fur and were almost sent into extinction. The great Mathias Chapman had a goal to save chinchillas from extinction, and he set out to find enough chins to bring back to the US for breeding purposes. After a year, only 11 chinchillas were captured and brought back to the US, which was the beginning of the original breeding stock for the Americans. Just to think, the chins that we have today, originated from 11 chinchillas – quite impressive eh? So yes, basically all of the chinchillas we own today are somehow related, but we breeders have learned to improve the species so that we can have healthy, beautiful chinchillas for you to enjoy. Chinchillas are expected to live 10-20 years in captivity and up to 15 years in the wild.

The chinchillas that America started out with were the basic standard gray and very rustic in appearance. After careful breeding, the standards began to improve. There are three different strains of chinchilla that consist of the Brevicaudata, Lanigera and Costina. Each strain has different characteristics and originated in different elevations. The Brevicaudata has a nice blocky build, but can have a brownish fur color. The Costinas on the other hand were much bluer in color, which is what breeders were aiming for in the offspring. The Lanigera type holds both of the traits, which are what we’re shooting for today – nice blocky chins with good clarity. Some of the chins we see today will look more like the Brevi-type with a short face, others will have the long face such as a Costina. As chinchilla breeding became popular, more people were purchasing chinchillas for breeding for fur trade. In the process, mutations began to evolve, such as the dominant mutations: Wilson White (1955), Tower Beige (1960) and Gunning Black (1960-61). After these mutations, breeders quickly began to see recessive strains pop up in herds that have either flourished or have been bred out. As the fur trade began to slow down over the years, chinchillas were introduced in the pet world. They’re becoming more and more popular and mutations are the new fad. Either way, today we are working to improve chinchillas whether they are standards or mutations. The entire goal of breeding chinchillas is to improve the species, which is what I am attempting to do as a small hobby breeder.

Temperament & Habits

Each chinchilla that you meet will vary in temperament. I have chinchillas that love to be held, and others that don’t like you to even open their cage. This doesn’t always fall back on the breeder either; temperament can also be a part of genetics and sometimes cannot be changed. I have biters, sprayers, cuddlers – you name it, I see a range in each of my chins. Most chins that you purchase from breeders though will end up with better temperaments than you would find in a pet store. This is because respectable breeders take time with their offspring and try to tame them at a young age. Do not purchase a chinchilla expecting it be comfortable with being held at all times – they are high strung animals that want to explore, not to be loved. They enjoy chin scratches (“scritches”), rubs behind the ears, an occasional kiss here and there and then want to hop off on their own. Chins like consistency and do not like dramatic changes in their life which could lead to stress and even shock.

Chinchillas should be handled with caution. Picking up a chinchilla by the base of the tail is safe. Picking up a chinchilla between the legs should be a careful action, as it’s possible to crush bones since they’re nervous animals. Do not squeeze chinchillas. Let the chins hop into your hand, or grab the base of the tail. Hold the chinchilla by supporting their back feet.

Chinchillas are mostly nocturnal and stay up the majority of the night and early morning hours. They like to sleep during the day, and most don’t want to be bothered. This is something that you need to think about when purchasing a chinchilla. Will you be able to provide adequate care for it at the right time of the day? Some people leave music on for their chins, which helps with hearing the human voice.

Chinchillas make different sounds that will tell you how they’re feeling and if anything is wrong. Check out this page so that you will know what your chins are telling you:

http://www.chinchilla-sounds.de/index_en.htm

Since chinchillas stay in their cages many hours out of the day, you need to provide your chin with something to keep them occupied. As a pet, chinchillas are easy to spoil, but it isn’t necessarily required. I’ve spoken with many other breeders who state that a chin just needs their shavings, clean water, quality pellets and fresh cool air. We’ll discuss this later on in the page when I get to housing.

Housing

When you go out to purchase your cage for your chinchilla – realize that money isn’t always the key. You need to do a bit of research so you will know what will be perfect for your chinchilla, so you won’t have to go out and purchase another cage later on. Personally, I would stay away from all SuperPet cages. Plastic bottom cages + Chins = Disaster. I have had this happen once since I’ve been breeding. I had two kits growing out, and I guess they decided that they were too grown to stay in their cage, so they chewed straight through the side of the plastic bottom on a cage. So, from there on out, I stuck with stainless or metal cages.

I suggest the Ferret Nation 141 or 142 cage. The size depends on the number of chinchillas you have. A 141 has enough space for up to 2 chinchillas, but a 142 can accommodate 2-4 chinchillas separated, or even one chinchilla if you really want to spoil your chin. They’re expensive, but they’re well worth the money and easy to decorate. You’ll need to replace the plastic pans with metal pans and take the ramps and shelves out, but it’s just for the safety of your chin.

Other than the Ferret Nation, you need to pick cages without wire ramps. Wire bottoms are ok as long as you’re not breeding and there are ledges or spots for your chins to sit on so that they will not end up with bumble foot. High elevations should be avoided or hammocks placed to catch falls, as we want to keep our chinchillas as safe as possible. Quality Cage also makes nice cages that work great for chins. Also, you can make your own cages out of melamine or a safe wood. E-mail me for a link to cage ideas.

Make sure your chinchilla’s room is at an adequate temperature. Temperatures should range from 60-72 degrees, more towards the low end if possible. Try not to force higher temperatures on chinchillas, as you may end up causing heat stroke which can lead to seizures and irreversible damage to the brain. You need to have an air conditioner on hand at all times, and a temperature gauge in the room to monitor. Chinchillas can’t sweat, so a fan will not work to cool off your room. Humidity should be kept as low as possible, as the higher the humidity goes; the hotter the chinchilla will feel. I’m always been told to keep humidity 35% or lower. Chinchillas should be kept in a draft-free area. If you cannot provide a chinchilla with the proper temperature and humidity, do not risk the chinchilla’s life by putting it into your care. There is no way around keeping your chinchilla cool.

You will want to decorate your cages with toys, ledges, perches, tubes and safe products for your chinchilla. They’re not required, but it’s fun spoiling your chin. I suggest using tons of safe woods for toys and ledges. Safe woods include: Kiln-Dried Pine, Apple, Birch, Magnolia, Pecan, Poplar, Willow, Aspen, Dogwood, Manzanita, Ash, Cottonwood, Crabapple, Cholla, and Elm. Also, fleece products are a favorite choice for chins, as they like the soft feeling and safe for them as long as they do not shred the fleece. You can check out my Supply Store if you’re interested in any of my items. Wheels are an option if you purchase one that is safe. Leo Braun, Flying Saucer and Chin Spin wheels are very expensive, but are very safe for your chins. DO NOT use wire wheels, as toes can get caught in the wire and feet may need to be amputated.

Be careful when using plastic. I started out as a chinchilla owner with tons of plastic in my cages. I had plastic igloos, plastic feeders, plastic toys, plastic cage bottoms, plastic balls. All are very unsafe for chinchillas if they chew them. Igloos are ok as long as your chins don’t eat the plastic. Some people purchase fleece covers for the igloos to stop the chewing. Plastic balls are definitely unsafe, as chinchillas overheat in the balls and you put them at risk for death. Let the chins run around in the bathroom, not in a ball. Instead of purchasing your products from a pet store, purchase from a breeder or supplier who has safe products and you’ll end up saving money. Wood houses cost about the same as plastic toys. They’re safe and chins love to eat them to keep their teeth filed down.

Your pet chinchilla should have adequate out of cage time to play. You want to make sure that it’s in a safe place, such as a bathroom where everything can be put up so the chins can’t get into it. Cords should be hidden, as chinchillas will chew through them. Chinchillas should not be left alone, as turning your back for just a minute can be deadly. I have read too many cases of chinchillas escaping from the house, or getting inside of walls and destroying wiring throughout a house. You have to chin proof your area. Sometimes purchasing a chinchilla playground or a fence will help out with playtime. Marshall’s Ferret Playpen is a great option, and you can give them tons of toys to play with during playtime.

Feeding

Chinchillas should be given a healthy pellet diet that consists of timothy or alfalfa hay as the main ingredient and is free of treats or corn. I use Purina Advanced Nutrition Rabbit Show Feed which is cost effective and also very healthy for your chins. Other brands that I suggest are Oxbow, Mazuri, Manna Show Pro, Kline, Tradition and a pellet formulated by Shoots Chinchilla. Any feed with treats or high sugar content such as Nutriphase, Kaytee, Sunseed, Charlie Chinchilla and Vitakraft should be avoided. Purchasing feed from a supplier or breeder will be much cheaper than purchasing feed from a store. I free-feed my chinchillas, which may use more food, but my chins are happy and healthy. Metal feeders are easier to use and are more cost effective. Ceramic feeders on cage bottoms normally get pooed in.

In addition to the pellet diet, you need to give adequate water in a clean bottle. Do not use water dishes, as chins poo in food and water dishes and the water will grow bacteria. Bottles can be purchased from Ryerson Chinchilla or search for Edstrom Water Buddy. Plastic bottles are sometimes harder to keep because chinchillas can chew holes through them.

In addition to pellets, hay is also a great supplement. If your pellet is alfalfa-based, give timothy hay, and vice versa. I use timothy, orchard grass, brome, and Bermuda grass. Oxbow is a great source for hay but you can also purchase hay in bales from feed stores as long as the hay/grass is green and free of moisture. Hay can be free-fed or given daily. Alfalfa and timothy cubes are also available for less mess.

Chinchillas enjoy toys and treats. Regardless of what anyone tells you – do not give your chinchillas raisins as a treat. Dried fruits are also a no-no. Chinchillas don’t get hairballs, so papaya isn’t needed either. I recommend using wood sticks, rosehips, shredded mini-wheats (no frosting, no sugar), a plain cheerio here or there and maybe some old fashioned oats. You should not over do it with treats though. Giving a treat 1-2 times a week should be enough, as you don’t want to throw the digestive system out of wack.

Clean-Up

Cage trays need to be changed once a week if you only have one chin, more often if you have more than one chin in the same cage. If you have a cage that does not have a pull out tray it will have to be cleaned more often since the chinchillas will be on the bedding at all times. Aspen shavings or kiln dried pine can be used in the pull out tray or in the floor of the cage if you do not have a pull out tray. Carefresh is also a great bedding that may be used, but it also can be a bit more expensive. I use cage liners that are made of fleece and batting that cut down the cost (after the initial cost) of purchasing bedding and is easier to just shake off the liner and throw the liner into the wash. Some chinchillas can be litter trained and with the use of fleece liners you can use a litter box with shavings for your chins to urinate in. Poos will always be in the cage, no way to avoid that. Cages should be totally cleaned and disinfected once or twice a month to cut down on bacteria. The chin should be removed from the cage during this cleaning. It is especially important to do this thorough cleaning if your chin is sick. If kept clean, chinchilla cages have little odor. If you keep bedding in too long, you may begin to smell their urine which smells more like ammonia. Chinchillas tend to pee in one corner of the cage. This corner should have more bedding to help absorb the waste. You can also sprinkle baking soda in that corner to help absorb any odors as well as Sweet PDZ powder. If your cage is close to a wall, make sure that you clean and disinfect the wall after you notice their urine on it. You can clean cages with a 50/50 vinegar and water solution and then clean it with hot water. I usually boil my water to try to sterilize the cage.

Grooming

Chinchillas are pretty much odor free if you keep their cage clean. Chinchillas enjoy chewing and need something to chew on at all times to keep their teeth trimmed down. Pumice chews, hay, loofah and safe wood are all great options for keeping your chins teeth healthy. If a chin does not get enough proper supplies for chewing, the teeth will grow too long preventing him from being able to eat and you could end up with a chin with malocclusion which cannot not be fixed other than frequent filings at the vet or having some of the teeth pulled.

Chinchillas can be combed with a proper grooming comb. You can purchase these online from chinchillas.com or from JAGS Chinchillas. There is a certain way to groom chinchillas and if you need that information I can send you links to videos or show you how to groom them. Chinchillas do not need water baths. These are dangerous if you do not know what you’re doing and should be avoided. Dust bath is the safe way of keeping your chinchilla clean. Dust baths should be given 2-3 times a week for 10-15 minutes a day. Don’t purchase dust bath from a pet store, as it’s not going to work as well as what breeders use for their chins. If you want to go cheap, Sweet PDZ powder will help keep your chin clean, but the coat won’t look as good as it should. Blue Sparkle dust is a step up, and sparkles are in the dust that make your chins shine. Blue Cloud dust is the best dust to purchase, and is used by any breeder who shows their chinchillas and we recommend that any pet owner try it at least once, and they’ll never want to use anything else. Dust can be placed in a plastic tub, a fish bowl, or even your bathtub, for your chinchilla to roll around and clean in. Do not continue to use soiled dust, as this can create bacteria problems. Do not use ‘chinchilla sand’ or any other type of sand that may be suggested on other websites.

Health Problems

Chinchillas are prone to health problems. This includes malocclusion, bumble foot, fungal infections, diarrhea, constipation, heat stroke, fur chewing and seizures. Breeders are working to keep our chinchillas healthier and educating the public on what to avoid and how to keep your chinchillas healthy. You should have a knowledgeable vet that has experience with chinchillas and an emergency vet just a call away. Chinchillas do not require regular vet check ups, as it normally causes stress on the animal and should be avoided unless an emergency situation arises.

Improper breeding can lead to malo, but it can also show up due to environmental stressers, lack of nutrition, lack of proper feed and hay, and other issues that are showing up more and more. Malocclusion has become a serious issue that we’re trying to avoid as much as possible. Chins with malo should not be bred. Once a chin is diagnosed with malo, you may have to hand feed your chin, have teeth pulled or keep the chin in and out of vets for teeth filings.

Bumble foot is caused by wire bottoms, wire ramps and bacteria. It’s best to give chinchillas ledges or chinchillers so that they can rest their feet and keep healthy pads. If you notice that your chinchilla has a problem with bumble foot, try to clean it and then use ointment on the pads to keep them from cracking.

Fungal infections are rare if the chin’s housing is kept clean and no foreign bodies are introduced. Antibiotics are normally needed for fungal infections and should be taken seriously. Waiting to take your chin to a vet will only make the problem worse.

Diarrhea and constipation are digestive issues that are sometimes caused by feed, stress, or changes in environment. Once you notice a difference in your chinchilla’s poos, you should keep track of it, because any small difference in a chinchilla’s digestive system can end up fatal. Blockages can happen to just about anyone at anytime and require immediate vet care. If you notice smaller or watery poos, find out your source and work from there. Water that isn’t kept clean can lead to pyometra.

Heat stroke can be avoided if your chinchilla is kept under the right temperatures and humidity.

Fur chewing is also a trait in chinchillas that breeders are trying to avoid. Some say that the trait is genetic, others think it’s environmental. DO NOT breed chins that fur chew. Fur cleaning is different from fur chewing. Fur chewing will leave out chunks of fur around the bottom of the body and is very unattractive. Dry skin has been said to lead to fur chewing, so do not dust your chinchilla too often.

Seizures can be caused from neurological damage, heatstroke, and other factors that should be talked about with a vet. Chins who have seizures should be in a one level cage where they can be kept safe from falls.

Breeding

Breeding chinchillas is a difficult task that should not be taken lightly. Do not expect to make money off of breeding chinchillas, because you'll be lucky to break even. Unless you aspire to become a rancher, you might as well realize that this is a hobby and a joy to experience, but not a money maker. The money in chinchillas lies in champions and the pelt market, and unless you have thousands of chinchillas that do well in show, and others that you can pelt, you're going to fork out money that will be hard to make back.

Picking a male and female for mating isn't just picking animals with male and female parts. First off, it's best to learn a bit about chinchilla genetics. You can't just put a pair together and expect them to produce a certain color, certain markings, or a certain quality. You need to pick quality chinchillas that compliment each other. It's best to read up on show quality animals so you know what to look for and then attend a few shows to see the difference in pet chinchillas and show chinchillas. If you find a 1st place white female that needs help with fur strength, then you find a compliment (most likely a standard) that has nice, tight, strong fur to improve on the female. You don't want to pair mutation to mutation without experience and without breeding back to standards every few generations so you will not weaken the line. I suggest reading the book Basic Genetics and History of Mutation Chinchillas by Alice Kline. Also, you're going to want to find a mentor that you can call when you have questions. Ranchers are great mentors and have experience and numbers that we small hobby breeders lack. I can refer you to a few ranchers if you'd like to find out more.

The basic pairing of male and female chinchillas is more complex than most would believe. Chinchillas don't always get along when you pair them, so you have to take into account the fact that you will need more than one cage for quarantine, then for introductions. I have had problems with introductions in the past and some chins won't agree with the mate you pick for them. Intros can take months, years, and may not even happen. You have to be prepared for the worse, because intros can take a wrong turn. I've had chins lose toes, major squabbles that resulted in loss of bits of ear, horrible fur pulling and hurt feelings. It breaks my heart to see the chins fight, but it's part of trying to breed.

With breeding comes complications of birth. (TO BE CONTINUED)

Sugar Gliders

Working on information to post.. will be updated soon.

Please realize that sugar gliders are considered exotic animals. They’re a bit different from chinchillas, and require much more attention and care. Sugar gliders are more expensive and cost more to feed and take care of than your basic cat and dog. Please read through my information before considering a sugar glider as your pet.